Quiet Luxury and Inconspicuous Consumption: A Case Study of The Row

Edited: February 2026

It seems the impeccable costuming of Succession's final season and A-lister's recent pap shots have brought the idea of subtlety into the fashion mainstream. Content creators are shouting about the whispered shift towards what's now termed “quiet luxury.” Hallmarks include refined silhouettes, neutral colour palettes, expert tailoring, absolutely minimal to no branding, and an overall timeless quality. From the past year's meteoric rise of quiet luxury, top google searches alongside the trend were the Row, arguably the most quintessentially, quietly luxurious brand of them all.

The Row

Founded in 2005 by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, The Row focuses on high quality materials and fabrics and is fundamentally concerned with being as low-key as possible. The official website explicitly says: “The Row's collections also explore the strength of simplistic shapes that speak to discretion.” Their recent FW 2024 show banning phones has further added to their intrigue.

The brand debuted on the Lyst Index as the 18th hottest brand for Q4 2023, with the Margaux bag heading the hottest product list. Only 1.9% of available units were discounted and re-sellers are marking it up by more than 80% of the original retail price. Multiple other categories of The Row's products also saw breakout increases on Google trends, from the Gala pants to the Ginza sandals – meaning each item saw a search increase of more than 5000% from when it first appeared on Google. So aside from the standout Margaux, consumers are interested in multiple Row items and the aura the brand lends to its customers.

Inconspicuous Consumption

The pendulum has now swung back from maximalism to minimalism, but reinvented of course. Gone are the days of conspicuous consumption, where consumers acquire loudly branded luxury goods to publicly display economic power and wealth. Instead, it has been replaced with inconspicuous consumption – buying items with a toned-down aesthetic that are overlooked by the masses, but are recognised by those with the necessary knowledge to interpret the covert cues. So in a way, the need for others to recognise the value of what you own is still present, but the circle of people has shrunk to only include a select few who really get it. If you know, you know.

But why is this happening, beyond the standard “the 90s are back?”

The Divorce Of Status And Salience

One of the cardinal fashion theories is the trickle-down theory. The elite dictate what is à la mode and trendy, with adoption by the lower classes to follow. In the current socioeconomic landscape, McKinsey's 2023 the State of Fashion reports that HNWIs continue to have savings and the means to spend on luxury goods, but they are being more thoughtful with their purchases. While TikTok stars stock their wardrobe to a monogrammed mix of ludicrously capacious bags and flashy logos, the upper echelons of the fashion world need to find a new way to differentiate themselves from the masses. Going the complete opposite direction is the solution. A simple brown cardigan can be imitated, but the Himalayan cashmere used to make it cannot.

From a consumer behaviour perspective, scholars believe that inconspicuous consumption comes from a complex interplay of intrinsic (internal) and extrinsic (external) motivations (see more on that here). A host of research has looked at how emotion is connected to internal motivations for luxury consumption, and how status signalling underpins external motivations.

The Pursuit Of Happiness

Picture this: you have been searching for the perfect, slouchy yet structured carry-all bag. You've spent weeks searching for inspiration on Pinterest and stumble on the Lyst's Hottest Products for the end of 2024. You click the link for the first-place item, and it takes you to the Row's Margaux Bag.

You go in store to feel the supple leather of the one display item for yourself and are greeted by a sales assistant that chats to you about the bag's construction and materials. You spend ages hunting it down on resale sights, even considering hiring a professional shopper to find one for you. After futile efforts, you just so happen to pass the store and find that they've quietly restocked the Margaux 15 in black. You nab the last one and feel a head rush, practically skipping home with joy. At this point, it becomes more than just an accessory; it represents your dedication and refined taste.

Fashion researchers found that an emotional connection to the brand or product plays a significant role in a preference for inconspicuous consumption. To consumers, luxury purchases go beyond aesthetics. They become imbued with symbolic meaning, enhanced by an exceptional in-store experience. The more involved consumers are in the search process, the more fulfilled they feel when they finally acquire the product. This self-fulfilment could be in a sense, fuelling the emotional fire, and accentuating the emotional connection to the product. Some consumers even mention prioritising self-discovery through their purchases, building cultural capital in their search for unique and luxurious items that bring a sense of achievement.

This emotional connection to a luxury brand is exactly what The Row cultivates through their focus on exceptional craftsmanship, timeless design, and exclusivity.

Is Inconspicuous Consumption The New Conspicuous?

External factors and extrinsic motivations are also clearly linked to inconspicuous consumption. Many consumers have been affected by post-COVID economic turbulence, and the luxury industry has not been exempted. All age groups are buying less, but also buying smarter. The second-hand luxury market is booming, with the growth of this industry set to outpace that of apparel retail by 11 times. New and second-hand luxury purchases are thought through to the long-term with the idea that these more expensive pieces will eventually become heirlooms. Gen Z in particular has adopted this mindset, with 29% of them increasing their searches for quiet luxury labels like The Row.

Inconspicuousness consumption can also be seen as a self defence strategy during times of economic hardship, according to fashion researchers. Some HNWIs tend to avoid evoking envy or anger from the general public by choosing inconspicuous luxury. The idea of showing off your wealth is now seen as gauche. But showing off to others in the same tax bracket, that’s a different story. With inconspicuous consumption, status-signalling is only aimed at those "in-the-know." Likened to secret handshakes – only those with required knowledge can understand what is trying to said with £3000+ virgin wool coats.

The Future of Quiet Luxury

In times of economic hardship, it seems the fashion elites are now flying under the radar, only showing off brief flashes of their refined taste and identity to those who can say “I see you.” As far as brands go, the Row ticks all these boxes – no logos and chicly vague advertising, yet widely loved by cool-girl celebrities. To embrace minimalism 2.0, brands can take a page from The Row’s book through investing in authentic, quality craftsmanship. Developing subtle, design signatures that are sleek and timeless are key in fostering drawing in inconspicuous consumers with the right eye. As far as marketing goes, being lowkey yet highly experiential will reinforce loyalty and increase exclusivity.